July 4, 2010

Products for your regimen

So, you're trying to perfect your regimen and aren't quite sure of which products to include? First, you must understand that hair must have a fine balance between moisture and protein. For this purpose alone, all products are either moisture based or protein based: to include shampoos, conditioners and leave-ins! For any hair regimen you will need one of the following items:

1. Moisturizing Shampoo apply once a week/month
"Moisturizing shampoo is shampoo that tries to keep the pH of the hair at about its natural level, around 5.0 or so. When the pH of the hair gets too high, the hair becomes too alkaline, and the cuticles open, the hair becomes dry and brittle, and the shine disappears. Is the pH of the hair gets too low, on the other hand, it will become hard and rough. So a big part of moisturizing shampoo is aiming to keep the hair in that sweet spot between the cuticles opening too much, and the hair becoming too hard." ~WiseGeeks

2. Clarifying Shampoo apply once a month/product build-up
"The purpose of clarifying shampoo is to deep clean the hair and remove product buildup. Products that are used for styling such as mousse, gel, hair spray, and even shampoo and conditioners that are used daily can build up over time. As these products build up, they can add weight to the hair making it appear flat. These products can also make hair appear lifeless and over time, the hair will begin to lose its shine. Using a clarifying shampoo periodically can work to remove the buildup and restore the bounce and natural highlights to hair." ~Clarifying Shampoo Guide

3. Moisturizing Conditioner apply twice a week
"To choose the best moisturizing conditioner, it is best to consider the type of hair you have, as well as if your hair is prone to becoming greasy or oily. Thick, rich conditioner, for an example, is a good choice for very dry, thick, or curly hair, whereas a lighter conditioner is a better choice for thin, very straight hair. In addition, consider whether you want moisturizing conditioner to be used every day, as a deep conditioning treatment once a week, or if you want leave-in conditioner that helps to style the hair.
There are many different types of moisturizing conditioner available, with various types of active ingredients. Moisturizing and humectant ingredients are the most important, as these are the ones that help add moisture, and repair damaged hair. Shea butter, coconut oil, panthenol, and glycerin are some of the most effective ingredients for moisturization, and some of the most common. Other ingredients added to moisturizing conditioner may include detangling ingredients, silicone to add shine, and fragrances." ~WiseGeeks

4. Moisturizing Deep Conditioner apply once a week
"Deep Conditioning the hair provides a preventative measure to ensure that there is as little damage to the hair as possible through the style. Deep conditioning for 15-30 and using heat will definitely help with the healthiness of your hair. Using a deep conditioner on a regular basis can help your hair bounce back from dryness and damage. You hair's elasticity will improve because of the emollients and other moisturizing ingredients in the conditioner. Other ingredients in the conditioner will help fill holes of damage that lead to poor porosity." ~All things O'Natural
5. Protein Deep Conditioner apply once a month
"Protein treatments contain various types of protein that attach to your hair in the areas that are weak to build up the strength in the hair. The protein hardens the cuticle layer and puts a protective barrier around the weakened hair. There are various types of protein conditioning treatments: the hardcore reconstructors, deep penetrating conditioners or light protein treatments, and protein paks. Hardcore reconstructors like Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair contain very strong protein to assist in rebuilding the most damaged hair. However, directions must be followed closely it must be used very carefully. Deep penetrating conditioners or light protein treatments like ORS Hair Mayo are not as strong and are a little easier to use without the worry of misuse. Organic Root Stimulator also makes a protein pack called Olive Oil Replenishing Conditioner that's available in 1-treatment packets or a bottle." ~Long Healthy Hair Advisor

6. Leave-in Conditioner apply daily
"Leave-in conditioners are exactly that – conditioners that are left on the hair and are NOT rinsed away. These conditioners are designed to be absorbed by the hair and are formulated as lightweight creams or lotions, or as liquids which can be sprayed onto the hair. These spray-on conditioners offer the benefit of being able to target the portions of the hair that need the most extra conditioning/protection – the ends of the hair, the top of the head only, etc" ~Hairfinder

7. Sealant Oil apply after the use of a leave-in
"As you've learned by now, there's no point in applying moisture to porous hair, without sealing it in. When you apply an effective sealant to moisturized skin or hair, the moisture can stay in and benefit the keratin cells, instead of quickly evaporating away. If you don't apply an effective sealant, the skin or hair will become dry quickly and you'll need to re-apply moisture over and over again. African American women with natural hair often prefer natural sealants like coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter. Those oils are rich in nutrients like fatty acids and Vitamin E, so they can replenish what the strands may lack. Plant-based oils have many proven benefits for the hair, but they actually don't make the best sealants." ~Nicole Hollis via CurlyNikki

excerpt from Sisters of Faith

"You Can’t Have one Without the other!

The unique relationship that exists between the protein and moisture balances within the hair strand is not simply a case of balancing opposing forces one over the other to prevent hair breakage. These two components work together synergistically to produce a healthy head of hair, and neither can work well without the other. Keeping the hair balanced between these two entities is very important. Protein loss from chemical treatments is almost always followed by a moisture loss of some degree. Hair that is properly proteinated absorbs moisture more efficiently because water molecules bind easily to a sound protein structure within the hair. Achieving the proper balance involves using the right combinations of protein and moisture based products for your hair type. Consider the following scenarios:

Scenario 1: Kim’s hair is breaking like crazy and feels like a brillo pad. It is just plain crunchy and dry! Every time she touches it, pieces seem to just pop right off. Snap, crackle, pop. Combing is impossible without tons of little hairs covering her sink and back. Her hair feels hard and rough even when wet. She’s given it protein treatments because the product says it is supposed to stop breakage in its tracks and rebuild the hair. But so far, nothing is working and her problem is getting worse.  (lack of moisture)

Scenario 2: Trina’s hair is breaking like crazy as well. Her hair feels dry, looks dull, and is very weak. Her hair is too weak to withstand simple combing. It feels extra stretchy when wet and almost follows the comb as she pulls through to detangle. Her hair is just limp and has no life. She’s deep conditioned and done hot oil treatments on her hair once a week. Since her breakage began, she has stepped up the conditioning but her problem has gotten worse.  (lack of protein)

Same Problem- Different Solutions

Both of these women have issues with hair breakage, but the solutions to their individual problems require two very different approaches. The two scenarios above perfectly illustrate what happens when the balance between protein and moisture is tipped too far in either direction. (Use these two ladies to assess your needs and decide if you need a moisture-based or protein-based regimen. Remember, there must be a balance between the two. Daily leave-ins, weekly moisture-based deep conditioner and a monthly protein treatments are recommended.)"

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